A nearshore wave breaking model

Li Shaowu; Wang Shangyi; Tomoya Shibayama

Volume 21 Issue 1

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Li Shaowu, Wang Shangyi, Tomoya Shibayama. A nearshore wave breaking model[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 1999, 21(1): 103-110.

Citation:

Li Shaowu, Wang Shangyi, Tomoya Shibayama. A nearshore wave breaking model[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 1999, 21(1): 103-110.

Li Shaowu, Wang Shangyi, Tomoya Shibayama. A nearshore wave breaking model[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 1999, 21(1): 103-110.

Citation:

Li Shaowu, Wang Shangyi, Tomoya Shibayama. A nearshore wave breaking model[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 1999, 21(1): 103-110.

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A nearshore wave breaking model

1.
Department of Water Resource and Harbor Engineering, Tianjin University, Tianjin 300072
2.
Department of Civil Engineering, Engineering Faculty, Yokohama National University, Yokohama 240, Japan

Received Date: 1996-06-01
Rev Recd Date: 1996-09-02

Abstract

Abstract

A wave breaking model is proposed on the basis of turbulent energy equation and the relationship of energy dissipation due to wave breaking in the surf zone. The model is established by introducing turbulent dissipation terms into the Boussinesq equations and involves the breaking process of individual wave. The model is verified by experiment data in terms of wave height and mean surface elevation. Good agreements are obtained.
- Boussinesq equations,
- wave breaking,
- eddy viscous coefficient

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References(12)

References

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