Cross-shore distribution feature of longshore currents over barred beaches

Wang Yan; Zou Zhili

doi:10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2014.11.014

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Wang Yan, Zou Zhili. Cross-shore distribution feature of longshore currents over barred beaches[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2014, 36(11): 120-130. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2014.11.014

Citation:

Wang Yan, Zou Zhili. Cross-shore distribution feature of longshore currents over barred beaches[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2014, 36(11): 120-130. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2014.11.014

Wang Yan, Zou Zhili. Cross-shore distribution feature of longshore currents over barred beaches[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2014, 36(11): 120-130. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2014.11.014

Citation:

Wang Yan, Zou Zhili. Cross-shore distribution feature of longshore currents over barred beaches[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2014, 36(11): 120-130. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2014.11.014

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Cross-shore distribution feature of longshore currents over barred beaches

doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2014.11.014

Wang Yan,
Zou Zhili

The State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China

Received Date: 2013-09-28

Abstract

Abstract

The experimental study on wave-driven longshore currents on barred beaches and numerical simulations which were based on wave energy conservation equation, were conducted to investigate the cross-shore distribution feature of velocity profiles of mean longshore currents, with emphasis on the second peak of longshore currents. The distribution feature of longshore currents has the velocity profile with bimodal characteristics. The larger one occurs on the middle part of lateral side of barred beaches and the smaller one is close to the shoreline, which corresponds to the first and second wave breaking respectively. The above features have been discussed by considering the effects of wave height, wave type and beach slope. The locations of two peaks and their ratio (i.e., higher one/smaller one) do not depend on wave type and wave height, but the location of barred beaches. Numerical simulations were also performed to compute the measured velocity profile with the emphasis on the effect of several factors such as lateral mixing, bottom friction and surface rollers on numerical results.
- bimodal profiles,
- two peak values,
- wave breaking,
- barred beaches

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References(17)

References

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