Research on laboratory generation method of controllable deep water breaking waves

Xue Qingren; Liang Shuxiu; Xu Yuanyuan; Sun Zhaochen

doi:10.12284/hyxb2023063

Volume 45 Issue 4

Mar. 2023

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Xue Qingren，Liang Shuxiu，Xu Yuanyuan, et al. Research on laboratory generation method of controllable deep water breaking waves[J]. Haiyang Xuebao，2023, 45(4)：46–56 doi: 10.12284/hyxb2023063

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Research on laboratory generation method of controllable deep water breaking waves

doi: 10.12284/hyxb2023063

State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China

Received Date: 2021-12-01
Rev Recd Date: 2022-11-09

Available Online: 2023-04-06

Publish Date: 2023-03-31

Abstract

Abstract

Deep water breaking wave is usually generated by the wave focusing method in laboratory. A wave with a significantly increased height can be generated by the superposition of components so that wave breaks when the steepness exceeds the limit value. However, using this method, the number of wave breaking is usually not unique leading to less obvious field characteristics after breaking and it’s hard to set research cases due to the difficulty in selecting wave-making parameters. As a result, the effect and efficiency of elaborate deep water wave breaking experiments is affected directly. Theoretical wave surface was calculated by the theory of wave focusing method and theoretical wave steepness was calculated using the wave height and wavelength defined by up-cross-zero method in this paper. On the other hand, wave breaking times and intensity were obtained from the physical experiments. The JONSWAP spectrum was used as the input spectrum and the effects of wave-making parameters, such as focusing amplitude, spectrum peak frequency, frequency bandwidth, on wave breaking were discussed so as to establish an approximate quantitative relationship between breaking times and input parameters. The research conclusions can provide a reference for selection of wave-making parameters so that the efficiency of the experiment can be improved.
- wave focusing method,
- JONSWAP spectrum,
- deep water wave breaking,
- breaking times

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References(20)

References

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