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珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化实验研究

姚宇 杜睿超 袁万成 蒋昌波

姚宇, 杜睿超, 袁万成, 蒋昌波. 珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化实验研究[J]. 海洋学报, 2015, 37(12): 66-73. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2015.12.007
引用本文: 姚宇, 杜睿超, 袁万成, 蒋昌波. 珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化实验研究[J]. 海洋学报, 2015, 37(12): 66-73. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2015.12.007
Yao Yu, Du Ruichao, Yuan Wancheng, Jiang Changbo. Experimental study of wave transformation around the surf zone over fringing reefs[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2015, 37(12): 66-73. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2015.12.007
Citation: Yao Yu, Du Ruichao, Yuan Wancheng, Jiang Changbo. Experimental study of wave transformation around the surf zone over fringing reefs[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2015, 37(12): 66-73. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2015.12.007

珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化实验研究

doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2015.12.007
基金项目: 国家自然科学基金资助项目(51309035,51239001);高等学校博士学科点科研基金新教师类(20134316120004);水文水资源与水利工程科学国家重点实验室开放研究基金(2014491011)。

Experimental study of wave transformation around the surf zone over fringing reefs

  • 摘要: 通过波浪水槽实验对珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演变规律开展研究,实验采用了概化的岸礁模型,测试了4种礁坪水深、4种礁前斜坡坡度和一系列入射波高的组合工况。对破碎带宽度和破碎带附近波浪的入射、反射、透射以及能量耗散进行了测量分析,透射波的计算考虑了礁坪上高次谐波的影响。结果表明:礁坪水深和入射深水波高的比值(即礁坪相对水深)是影响岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化的关键参数,而礁前斜坡坡度的影响在本文测量的范围内可以忽略不计。破碎带宽度与礁坪上浅水波波长为同一数量级,并与礁坪相对水深成反比;透射系数随礁坪相对水深的增大呈线性增长,而反射系数的变化却无类似规律;岸礁能够削弱超过50%入射波能,礁坪相对水深越小,波浪破碎造成的能量耗散越大。
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出版历程
  • 收稿日期:  2015-05-07
  • 修回日期:  2015-06-27

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