Progress of edge waves research
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摘要: 由于折射作用,在波浪近岸传播过程中会出现一种特殊的、沿着岸线传播的波浪,这种波浪被称为边缘波。边缘波平行于岸线传播,其振幅在岸线处最大,在远离岸线的方向,其振幅呈指数型减小,它们的能量基本被限制在离海岸一波长的距离之内,因此边缘波对近岸地区工程、地貌等有着重要影响。本文对边缘波的研究历史、研究进展进行了阐述,主要介绍了以下几个方面:(1)基于不同控制方程、不同地形上的边缘波理论;(2)实际观测到的边缘波特性;(3)物理模型试验中边缘波的造波方式以及观测到的边缘波特性;(4)数值模拟方法在边缘波研究中的应用。最后,展望了边缘波在未来的研究趋势。Abstract: Due to the effect of refraction, a special phenomenon that propagates along the shoreline occurs during the nearshore propagation of waves, which are called edge waves. The edge waves propagate parallel to the shoreline, and their amplitude is the largest at the shoreline, and its amplitude decreases exponentially in the direction away from the shoreline, and their energy is limited to a distance of one wavelength from the coast. So the edge waves have an important impact on the engineering and landforms of the near-shore area. This paper expounds on the research history and research progress of edge waves and mainly introduces the following aspects: (1) the theory of edge waves based on different governing equations and different terrains; (2) the actual observed edge wave characteristics; (3) the wave-making method of edge waves in the physical model test and the observed edge wave characteristics; (4) the application of numerical simulation methods in the study of edge waves. Finally, the future research trend of edge waves is presented.
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图 1 Ursell[10]设计的试验装置
阴影部分平面为水面,WW为岸线,VV为试验中观察波面的位置,A1B1B2A2为可移动的板,FG为固定轴,C1D1、C2D2为固定的假墙
Fig. 1 The experimental device designed by Ursell [10]
The shaded plane is the water surface, WW is the shoreline, VV is the position of the wave surface observed in the test, A1B1B2A2 is the movable plate, FG is the fixed axis, C1D1, C2D2 are the fixed false walls
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