Morphodynamic analysis on fringing reef coasts under different damage conditions
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摘要: 探索珊瑚礁与海滩地貌之间动力地貌联系是认识珊瑚礁海岸变化的重要一环。本文以雷州半岛徐闻西落港珊瑚礁海岸为研究对象，应用RTK-GPS和无人船开展岸滩剖面和近岸水下地形的测量、结合海滩沉积物分析，基于FUNWAVE-TVD数值模型模拟并分析不同珊瑚礁地形地貌条件下波浪动力传播过程。结果显示，研究区珊瑚礁水下地形是影响礁后海滩地貌的主要因素。礁体形态不同，导致其礁后海滩在珊瑚礁地形控制下，短波波能和次重力波波能沿程呈现不同变化规律，最终导致礁后海滩的近岸波能主控频段的差异，在较窄的珊瑚礁海岸，次重力波占比较大。在不同主控频段波浪驱动下，礁后海滩平衡剖面呈现差异性特征，Muñóz-Pérez提出的珊瑚礁后海滩平衡剖面拟合中未考虑该因素的影响，需要在此认识基础上进一步改进。
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关键词:
- 珊瑚礁海岸 /
- FUNWAVE-TVD /
- 次重力波 /
- 动力地貌 /
- 海滩平衡剖面
Abstract: Morphodynamic relationships between fringing reefs and back-reef beach play key roles in understanding the evolution of coral coasts. The fringing reef coasts of Leizhou Peninsula, in Xiluo Port, Xuwen, are taken as the research object in this paper. RTK-GPS and unmanned-surface-vessel are used to measure and analyze the topography of the beach profile and reef as well as the sediment sampling in beach. FUNWAVE-TVD is used to simulate and analyze the hydrodynamic process of short wave and infragravity wave cross the different reef. The results show that the reef topography in the study area has significant effects on the morphology of back-reef beach. Whether the nearshore wave energy dominated by the short wave band or the infragravity band is controlled by the topography. In the narrow reef, there is a predominance of infragravity energy near the back-reef beach. The dominated wave band in the nearshore wave energy is the main factor shape the back-reef beach equilibrium profile. However, the beach equilibrium profile model of coral coast proposed by Muñóz-Pérez did not take this factor into account, it need to further research.-
Key words:
- fringing reef coasts /
- FUNWAVE-TVD /
- infragravity waves /
- morphodynamic /
- beach equilibrium profile
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图 1 研究区域
a. 来源于ETOPO1水深数据；b. 来源于谷歌地球；c-e. 来源于野外实测
Fig. 1 Study area
a. Water depth data from ETOPO1; b. from Google Earth; c-e. from field measurements
图 2 珊瑚礁海岸剖面数值模型区域设置示意
Fig. 2 Schematic of cross-shore profiles of reef topography in the numerical experiments
图 3 有效波高（黑线）和次重力波波高（红线）实测值与数值模拟值比较
Fig. 3 Spatial variations of measured and predicted significant wave heights (black line), infragravity wave heights (red line)
图 4 网格尺寸对剖面离岸50 m和100 m处波面变化的影响
Fig. 4 Influence of grid sizes on water surface elevation at 50 m and 100 m distance from shoreline
图 5 徐闻西落港珊瑚礁海岸地形
a. 海岸剖面地形；b. 礁后海滩剖面地形；MHWL表示平均高潮线，MSL表示平均海平面，MLWL表示平均低潮线
Fig. 5 Topography of fringing reef in Xiluo Port, Xuwen
a. Cross-shore profiles of reef topography; b. cross-shore profiles of back-reef beach topography; MHWL represent mean high water level, MSL represent mean sea level, and MLWL represent mean low water level
图 6 徐闻西落港海岸P1剖面粒度参数沿程分布
a. 中值粒径沿程分布；b. 分选系数沿程分布
Fig. 6 Cross-shore distribution of surface sediment grain-size parameters in the Xiluo Port, Xuwen
a. Cross-shore distribution of the median size of sediment; b. cross-shore distribution of sorting coefficient
图 7 徐闻西落港珊瑚礁海岸短波波能（Ess0）（a1−a3），次重力波波能（Eig0）（b1−b3）和珊瑚礁海岸地形（c1−c3）沿程分布
范围由岸向海200 m，铅直线为0 m等深线
Fig. 7 Spatial variations of short wave energy (Ess0) (a1−a3), infragravity wave energy (Eig0) (b1−b3) and reef topography (c1−c3) in the Xiluo Port, Xuwen
The range is from 200 m from shore to sea, the vertical line means the 0 m isobaths
图 8 徐闻西落港珊瑚礁海岸剖面处岸滩平衡剖面模拟
实线为原始剖面，虚线为拟合剖面
Fig. 8 Simulation of the beach equilibrium profile in the Xiluo Port, Xuwen
The solid lines mean the original profiles, the dotted lines mean modeled profiles
表 1 徐闻西落港珊瑚礁海岸不同剖面地形参数
Tab. 1 Topographic parameters of fringing reef in the Xiluo Port, Xuwen
剖面编号 礁坪宽度/m 礁缘水深/m 礁后海滩坡度 礁后海滩宽度/m P1 1 146.00 1.27 0.13 30.31 P2 288.59 0.69 0.05 66.35 P3 731.65 2.21 0.12 40.75 
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表 2 徐闻西落港珊瑚礁海岸0 m等深线处波能及波能成分比重
Tab. 2 Wave energy and its’ variation in different wave band along the 0 m isobaths in the Xiluo Port, Xuwen
剖面编号 Ess0/(104 m2) Eig0/(104 m2) [(Ess0−Essλ)/Essλ]/% [(Eig0−Eigλ)/Eigλ]/% (Ess0/E0)/% (Eig0/E0)/% P1 0.41 0.18 –99.59 105.21 69.58 30.42 P2 0.14 0.95 –99.85 3 729.29 13.11 86.89 P3 5.11 3.99 –95.19 9 776.25 56.14 43.86
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表 3 各海滩平衡剖面拟合结果及误差
Tab. 3 Fitting results and errors of each beach equilibrium profile
剖面编号 $ {A}_{rp}/{m}^{1/3} $ $\varepsilon \left({A}_{rp}\right)/\text{%}$ P1 0.26 3.71 P2 0.17 9.56 P3 0.28 1.06
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