Message Board

Respected readers, authors and reviewers, you can add comments to this page on any questions about the contribution, review, editing and publication of this journal. We will give you an answer as soon as possible. Thank you for your support!

Full name
E-mail
Phone number
Title
Message
Verification Code
Huang Hu, Zhou Xireng, Lü Xiuhong. A new parabolic equation for propagation of weakly nonlinear Stokes waves over uneven bottom[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2000, 22(4): 101-106.
Citation: Huang Hu, Zhou Xireng, Lü Xiuhong. A new parabolic equation for propagation of weakly nonlinear Stokes waves over uneven bottom[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2000, 22(4): 101-106.

A new parabolic equation for propagation of weakly nonlinear Stokes waves over uneven bottom

  • Received Date: 1998-08-07
  • Rev Recd Date: 2000-01-03
  • Considering the limitation of mild-slope equation, requiring a computational effort and the mild-slope assumption, in practical engineering, a new nonlinear parabolic equation including the second-order long-waves ignored in the previous like equation is obtained by way of the parabolic approximation on Liu and Dingemans's third order evolution equation for Stokes waves propagating over uneven bottom applicable to mild and abrupt topography.The model theory can provide more accurate predictions by comparison of the numerical model results with the classic experimental data of Berkhoff et al.
  • loading
  • Liu P L-F, Mei C C. Water motion on a beach in the presence of a breakwater 1. Waves. J Geophys Res, 1976, 81:3 079~3 084
    Berkhoff J C W. Computation of combined refraction-diffraction. Proc 13th Int Conf Coastal Eng. Vancouver:ASCE, 1972. 471~490
    Radder A C. On the parabolic equation method for water-wave propagation. J Fluid Mech, 1979, 95:159~176
    Kirby J T, Dalrymple R A. A parabolic equation for the combined refraction-diffraction of Stokes waves by mildly varying to pography. J Fluid Mech, 1983, 136:453~466
    Liu P L-F, Tsay T-K. Refraction-diffraction model for weakly nonlinear water waves. J Fluid Mech, 1984, 141:265~274
    Dalrymple R A, Kirby J T. Models for very wide-angle water waves and wave diffraction. J Fluid Mech, 1988, 192:33~50.
    林刚,邱大洪.新抛物型缓底坡波动方程.水利学报,1999,(3):59~63
    陶建华,韩光,龙文.浅水区大面积波浪场数值计算方法的研究.第九届全国海岸工程学术讨论会北京:海洋出版社,1999.17~24
    Kirby J T. A general wave equation for waves over rippled beds. J Fluid Mech, 1986, 162:171~186
    Liu P L-F, Dingemans M W. Derivation of the third-order evolution equatons for weakly nonlinear water propagating over uneven bottoms. Wave Motion, 1989, 11:41~64
    Chandrasekera C N, Cheung K F. Extended linear refraction-diffraction model. J Wtrwy, Port, Coast, and Oc Engr, 1997, 123(5):280~286
    Mei C C, Benmousa C. Long waves induced by short wave groups over an uneven bottom. J Fluid Mech, 1984, 139:219~350
    Wu J K, Liu P L-F. Harbor excitations by incident wave groups. J Fluid Mech, 1990, 217:595~613
    Roelvink J K, Stive MJ F. Bar-generating cross-shore flow mechanism on a beach. J Geophys Res, 1989, 94:4 785~4 800
    Berkhoff J C W, Booij N, Radder A C. Verification of numerical wave propagation models for simple harmonic linear waves.Coastal Eng, 1982, 6:255~279
  • 加载中

Catalog

    通讯作者: 陈斌, bchen63@163.com
    • 1. 

      沈阳化工大学材料科学与工程学院 沈阳 110142

    1. 本站搜索
    2. 百度学术搜索
    3. 万方数据库搜索
    4. CNKI搜索
    Article views (743) PDF downloads(569) Cited by()
    Proportional views
    Related

    /

    DownLoad:  Full-Size Img  PowerPoint
    Return
    Return