A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves

Liu Xin'an; Huang Peiji; Chen Xueying; Hu Zejian

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Liu Xin'an, Huang Peiji, Chen Xueying, Hu Zejian. A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 1998, 20(3): 12-18.

Citation:

Liu Xin'an, Huang Peiji, Chen Xueying, Hu Zejian. A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 1998, 20(3): 12-18.

Liu Xin'an, Huang Peiji, Chen Xueying, Hu Zejian. A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 1998, 20(3): 12-18.

Citation:

Liu Xin'an, Huang Peiji, Chen Xueying, Hu Zejian. A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 1998, 20(3): 12-18.

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A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves

First Institute of Oceanography, State Oceanic Administration, Qingdao 266003

Received Date: 1997-02-20
Rev Recd Date: 1997-06-15

Abstract

Abstract

In this paper,the spatial evolution of the third-order moment (i.e.,the skewness) of the sea surface elevation for nonbreaking shoaling random waves versus Hs/d is analyzed by using the data obtained in field and laboratory.Using the empirical relationship given in this paper,the nonlinear model for the sea surface elevation of nonbreaking shoaling waves in the second-order approximation by expanding the first two terms of Hermitian polynomial is depicted by the parameter Hs/d,and such characteristics as the power spectrum,the bispectrum and the distribution function of sea surface elevation as well have been derived in this paper.The correlation between the skewness and the kurtosis of the sea surface elevation is also discussed.
- Shoaling,
- random waves,
- nonlinear model

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References(17)

References

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