A new model of wave energy dissipation for multiple wave breaking on very mild beach

Yan Sheng; Zou Zhili

doi:10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2020.09.004

Volume 42 Issue 9

Nov. 2020

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Yan Sheng，Zou Zhili. A new model of wave energy dissipation for multiple wave breaking on very mild beach[J]. Haiyang Xuebao，2020, 42(9)：30–37 doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2020.09.004

Citation:

Yan Sheng，Zou Zhili. A new model of wave energy dissipation for multiple wave breaking on very mild beach[J]. Haiyang Xuebao，2020, 42(9)：30–37 doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2020.09.004

Citation:

Yan Sheng，Zou Zhili. A new model of wave energy dissipation for multiple wave breaking on very mild beach[J]. Haiyang Xuebao，2020, 42(9)：30–37 doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2020.09.004

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A new model of wave energy dissipation for multiple wave breaking on very mild beach

doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2020.09.004

Yan Sheng^1
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Zou Zhili^{1
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State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China

Received Date: 2020-02-12
Rev Recd Date: 2020-07-15

Available Online: 2021-04-21

Publish Date: 2020-09-25

Abstract

Abstract

On a coastal beach of very mild slope (close to or less than 1∶100), the multiple wave breaking may occur when waves propagate to the coast, companied by the wave recovery process between two breaking. In the current models for calculation of wave height, the wave breaking is usually simulated by the wave energy dissipation. But the establishment of energy dissipation describing wave breaking effect in these models did not automatically take the multiple wave breakings into account, and especially did not accurately simulate the wave recovery in this process. The present study presents a new model of the wave energy dissipation which can overcome this problem. The model is established by re-determining the stable wave energy, the saturated wave height-depth ratio and the dissipation coefficient and by introducing the judgment condition for the occurrence of wave recovery. The model has a very small value of the energy dissipation over wave recovery region and can properly describe the wave motion in wave recovery process. Comparison with measured wave heights shows that the model can give the wave heights on the plane and barred beaches of various bottom slopes (1∶10 to 1∶100), which agree well with the measurement, especially the multiple wave breaking and wave recovery process can be recognized automatically in the numerical simulations.
- wave recovery,
- wave breaking,
- wave energy dissipation,
- mild plane beach,
- barred beach

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References(11)

References

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