Numerical simulations and statistical analysis of surf on the generalized topography of the Nansha Islands

Cao Guangsong; Zhu Shouxian; Zhang Wenjing; Nie Yu

doi:10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2020.01.003

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Cao Guangsong，Zhu Shouxian，Zhang Wenjing, et al. Numerical simulations and statistical analysis of surf on the generalized topography of the Nansha Islands[J]. Haiyang Xuebao，2020, 42(1)：22–30，doi:10.3969/j.issn.0253−4193.2020.01.003

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Numerical simulations and statistical analysis of surf on the generalized topography of the Nansha Islands

doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2020.01.003

1.
College of Oceanography, Hohai University, Nanjing 210098, China
2.
College of Meteorology and Oceanography, National University of Defence Tichnology, Nanjing 211101, China
3.
PLA Unit 91937, Zhoushan 316000, China

Received Date: 2019-04-28
Rev Recd Date: 2019-09-04

Available Online: 2021-04-21

Publish Date: 2020-01-25

Abstract

Abstract

There are hundreds of islands and reefs in Nansha Islands. Most of them are characterized by steep seaward slope and gentle outer reef flat. The wave-facing topography of reefs were generalized to a pair of slopes. FUNWAVE-TVD was adopted to simulate shoaling and breaking. Breaking wave heights simulated by the model were analyzed. The slope of seaward slopes has little influence on surf. The breaking wave height on the outer reef flat only increases slightly as the slope increases. The water depth at the turning of the seaward slope and the out reef flat (i.e. the turning point of the slope) has relatively obvious influence on the surf. The breaking wave height decreases with the increasing of water depth at the turning point. The breaker height will also increase with the increasing of incident wave height and wave period. Five statistical models of breaking wave heights compared with the simulating results. Three types of new statistical models are also established based on the simulating result. The results of error calculation show that these models have good applicability.
- reefs of Nansha Islands,
- generalized topography,
- surf,
- FUNWAVE-TVD,
- statistical model

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References(23)

References

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