Study on wave characteristics in the nearshore waters of Xiangshui

Gao Chenchen; Zhou Gucheng; Wang Kanrui

doi:10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2019.05.003

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Gao Chenchen, Zhou Gucheng, Wang Kanrui. Study on wave characteristics in the nearshore waters of Xiangshui[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2019, 41(5): 23-34. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2019.05.003

Citation:

Gao Chenchen, Zhou Gucheng, Wang Kanrui. Study on wave characteristics in the nearshore waters of Xiangshui[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2019, 41(5): 23-34. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2019.05.003

Gao Chenchen, Zhou Gucheng, Wang Kanrui. Study on wave characteristics in the nearshore waters of Xiangshui[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2019, 41(5): 23-34. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2019.05.003

Citation:

Gao Chenchen, Zhou Gucheng, Wang Kanrui. Study on wave characteristics in the nearshore waters of Xiangshui[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2019, 41(5): 23-34. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2019.05.003

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Study on wave characteristics in the nearshore waters of Xiangshui

doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2019.05.003

Shanghai Water Engineering Design and Research Institute Co., Ltd., Shanghai 200061, China;Shanghai Engineering Research Center of Coastal Zones, Shanghai 200061, China

Received Date: 2018-08-08

Abstract

Abstract

Based on one-year field observation wave data measured in nearshore waters of Xiangshui, the variations of wave heights and periods are investigated, the statistical and spectral characteristics of waves are analyzed and the relationship among the characteristic wave heights, the characteristic wave periods and the wave spectra parameters are identified. Results show that the significant wave height varies from 0.10 m to 2.80 m with the average of 0.56 m, the maximum wave height varies from 0.15 m to 5.58 m with the average of 0.93 m and the mean wave period varies from 1.91 s to 9.02 s with the average of 3.90 s. The probability of huge waves in summer is obviously less than that in winter and spring, showing the seasonal variability. With respect to wave height and wave period distribution, the Weibull distribution works better on the distributions of measured wave height and period. In terms of wave spectrum properties, the percentage of double-peaked spectra is 62.5 during the measurement period. The spectral peak value corresponding to a lower peak frequency is generally higher than the one corresponding to a higher peak frequency, and the lower peak frequency is around 0.04 Hz, the higher peak frequency is between 0.15 Hz to 0.20 Hz, which corresponds to the frequency intervals of the sea swells and wind waves respectively. Besides, the transformations of several characteristic wave heights, characteristic wave periods and the wave spectra parameters are obtained by linear regression analysis, and strong correlations between them are found, however, due to the wave deformation in shallow water, these ratio coefficients are different from those ones in deep water. The research results of this paper could serve as reference and guidance for the design of coastal structures as well as for disaster prevention and mitigation.
- Xiangshui,
- wave characteristics,
- wave spectra,
- wave parameter,
- regression analysis

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