Study on high order spectral numerical model of wave height nonlinear probability distribution

Feng Siyu; Ma Xiaozhou; Dong Guohai

doi:10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2019.03.005

Article Contents

Article Navigation > Haiyang Xuebao > 2019 > 41(3): 44-51

Feng Siyu, Ma Xiaozhou, Dong Guohai. Study on high order spectral numerical model of wave height nonlinear probability distribution[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2019, 41(3): 44-51. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2019.03.005

Citation:

Feng Siyu, Ma Xiaozhou, Dong Guohai. Study on high order spectral numerical model of wave height nonlinear probability distribution[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2019, 41(3): 44-51. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2019.03.005

Citation:

PDF( 8156 KB)

Study on high order spectral numerical model of wave height nonlinear probability distribution

doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2019.03.005

1. State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China

Received Date: 2018-02-08
Rev Recd Date: 2018-06-15

Abstract

Abstract

Due to the instability modulation (Benjamin-Feir instability) and nonlinear wave-wave interaction, the distribution of waves deviates from the Rayleigh distribution under the linear hypothesis. Numerical simulation of waves in different initial conditions by using High-Order Spectral model, compares the Rayleigh distributions in the linear theory and the modified Edgewood Rayleigh distribution (MER distribution) and the distribution based on the Gram-Charlier expansion (GC distribution) with wave height data. Results show that in the process of wave propagation skewness changed little and kurtosis increased gradually. Wave distribution is accord with Rayleigh distribution in smaller significant wave height. Wave distribution is accord with MER and GC distribution while significant wave height increased. The wave height distribution is more close to the Rayleigh distribution than the narrow spectrum under the condition of wide spectrum.
- nonlinear effect,
- wave height distribution,
- High-Order Spectral method,
- kurtosis

FullText(HTML)

References(19)

References

Rice S O. Mathematical analysis of random noise[J]. The Bell System Technical Journal, 1944, 23(3): 282-332.

Kinsman B. Surface waves at short fetches and low wind speeds: a field study[R]. Chesapeake Bay Institute, Johns Hopkins University, 1960.

Longuet-Higgins M S, Deacon G E R. The statistical analysis of a random, moving surface[J]. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London. Series A, Mathematical and Physical Sciences, 1957, 249(966): 321-387.

Tayfun M A. On narrow-band representation of ocean waves: 1. Theory[J]. Journal of Geophysical Research, 1986, 91(C6): 7743-7752.

Tayfun M A. On narrow-band representation of ocean waves: 2. Simulations[J]. Journal of Geophysical Research, 1986, 91(C6): 7753-7759.

Janssen P A E M. Nonlinear four-wave interactions and freak waves[J]. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 2003, 33(4): 863-884.

Mori N, Yasuda T. Effects of high-order nonlinear interactions on unidirectional wave trains[J]. Ocean Engineering, 2002, 29(10): 1233-1245.

Tayfun M A, Fedele F. Wave-height distributions and nonlinear effects[J]. Ocean Engineering, 2007, 34(11/12): 1631-1649.

Onorato M, Osborne A R, Serio M, et al. Modulational instability and non-Gaussian statistics in experimental random water-wave trains[J]. Physics of Fluids, 2005, 17(7): 078101.

Mori N, Onorato M, Janssen P A E M, et al. On the extreme statistics of long-crested deep water waves: theory and experiments[J]. Journal of Geophysical Research, 2007, 112(C9): C09011.

Tayfun M A. Distributions of envelope and phase in wind waves[J]. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 2008, 38(12): 2784-2800.

Cherneva Z, Guedes Soares C. Non-Gaussian wave groups generated in an offshore wave basin[J]. Journal of Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering, 2012, 134(4): 041602.

Alkhalidi M A, Tayfun M A. Generalized Boccotti distribution for nonlinear wave heights[J]. Ocean Engineering, 2013, 74: 101-106.

Petrova P G, Guedes Soares C. Distributions of nonlinear wave amplitudes and heights from laboratory generated following and crossing bimodal seas[J]. Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, 2014, 14(5): 1207-1222.

Zhang H D, Soares C G, Onorato M. Modelling of the spatial evolution of extreme laboratory wave crest and trough heights with the NLS-type equations[J]. Applied Ocean Research, 2015, 52: 140-150.

Wang Yingguang. Transformed Rayleigh distribution of trough depths for stochastic ocean waves[J]. Coastal Engineering, 2018, 133: 106-112.

Dommermuth D G, Yue D K P. A high-order spectral method for the study of nonlinear gravity waves[J]. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 1987, 184: 267-288.

Ducrozet G, Bonnefoy F, Le Touze D, et al. 3D HOS Simulations of extreme waves in open seas and of their reproducing in a wavetank[C]//Proceedings of European Geosciences Union General Assembly. Vienne, Austria: European Geosciences Union, 2006.

Ducrozet G, Bonnefoy F, Le Touzé D, et al. HOS-ocean: open-source solver for nonlinear waves in open ocean based on high-order spectral method[J]. Computer Physics Communications, 2016, 203: 245-254.

Relative Articles

Supplements(0)

Cited By

Proportional views