Laboratory study on geometric characteristics of limitting waves in shallow water

Chen Hongzhou; Ma Yuxiang; Ma Xiaozhou; Dong Guohai

doi:10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2017.02.010

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Chen Hongzhou, Ma Yuxiang, Ma Xiaozhou, Dong Guohai. Laboratory study on geometric characteristics of limitting waves in shallow water[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2017, 39(2): 105-111. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2017.02.010

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Chen Hongzhou, Ma Yuxiang, Ma Xiaozhou, Dong Guohai. Laboratory study on geometric characteristics of limitting waves in shallow water[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2017, 39(2): 105-111. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2017.02.010

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Laboratory study on geometric characteristics of limitting waves in shallow water

doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2017.02.010

The State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China

Received Date: 2016-03-03
Rev Recd Date: 2016-06-10

Abstract

Abstract

Physical experiments were carried out in a wave flume to examine the geometric characteristics of limiting gravity waves propagating in shallow water. Several random wave trains varying height and peak frequency were generated using JONSWAP spectra. Three bottom slopes (1/15, 1/30, 1/45) were installed in the wave flume and the influence of slope bottoms were also considered. Limiting waves were captured from the measured wave trains and the geometric characteristics of its waveform were analyzed. It is found that in the range of bottom slope adopted in this experiment both initial wave heights and local water depth have significant influence on the limiting characteristics of shallow water waves. With the influence of these factors, the geometric of extreme waves are developed. The bottom slopes effect to the limiting steepness and skewness could be neglected, however, it has obvious influence to the limiting wave asymmetry. It will show a more severe asymmetry when waves are on a steeper bottom. Furthermore, the empirical formulae regarding the relationships between geometric characteristics and the local nondimensional wave height were derived.
- shallow water waves,
- extreme wave steepness,
- skewness,
- asymmetry,
- parameterization,
- laboratory study,
- bottom slope

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References(16)

References

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