Morphodynamic analysis on fringing reef coasts under different damage conditions

Chen Yanshan; Qi Hongshuai; Yang Qingshu; Cai Feng; Liu Gen; Zhu Jun; Zhao Shaohua

doi:10.12284/hyxb2022025

Volume 44 Issue 3

Mar. 2022

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Chen Yanshan，Qi Hongshuai，Yang Qingshu, et al. Morphodynamic analysis on fringing reef coasts under different damage conditions[J]. Haiyang Xuebao，2022, 44(3)：61–69 doi: 10.12284/hyxb2022025

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Morphodynamic analysis on fringing reef coasts under different damage conditions

doi: 10.12284/hyxb2022025

Chen Yanshan^{1, 2
,},
Qi Hongshuai^{2, 4, 5
,
,},
Yang Qingshu^{1, 3, 4},
Cai Feng^{2, 4},
Liu Gen^{2, 4, 5},
Zhu Jun^{2, 4},
Zhao Shaohua²

1.
Institute of Estuarine and Coastal Research, School of Marine Engineering and Technology, Sun Yat-sen University, Guangzhou 510275, China
2.
Laboratory of Ocean and Coast Geology, Third Institute of Oceanography, Ministry of Natural Resources, Xiamen 361005, China
3.
State and Local Joint Engineering Laboratory of Estuarine Hydraulic Technology, Guangzhou 510275, China
4.
Guangdong Provincial Engineering Research Center of Coasts, Islands and Reefs, Zhuhai 510275, China
5.
Observation and Research Station of Coastal Wetland Ecosystem in Beibu Gulf, Minstry of Natural Resources, Beihai 536015, China

Received Date: 2021-03-24
Rev Recd Date: 2021-08-15
Publish Date: 2022-03-18

Abstract

Abstract

Morphodynamic relationships between fringing reefs and back-reef beach play key roles in understanding the evolution of coral coasts. The fringing reef coasts of Leizhou Peninsula, in Xiluo Port, Xuwen, are taken as the research object in this paper. RTK-GPS and unmanned-surface-vessel are used to measure and analyze the topography of the beach profile and reef as well as the sediment sampling in beach. FUNWAVE-TVD is used to simulate and analyze the hydrodynamic process of short wave and infragravity wave cross the different reef. The results show that the reef topography in the study area has significant effects on the morphology of back-reef beach. Whether the nearshore wave energy dominated by the short wave band or the infragravity band is controlled by the topography. In the narrow reef, there is a predominance of infragravity energy near the back-reef beach. The dominated wave band in the nearshore wave energy is the main factor shape the back-reef beach equilibrium profile. However, the beach equilibrium profile model of coral coast proposed by Muñóz-Pérez did not take this factor into account, it need to further research.
- fringing reef coasts,
- FUNWAVE-TVD,
- infragravity waves,
- morphodynamic,
- beach equilibrium profile

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References(40)

References

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