留言板

尊敬的读者、作者、审稿人, 关于本刊的投稿、审稿、编辑和出版的任何问题, 您可以本页添加留言。我们将尽快给您答复。谢谢您的支持!

姓名
邮箱
手机号码
标题
留言内容
验证码

南沙群岛礁概化地形上拍岸浪数值模拟与统计分析

曹广颂 朱首贤 张文静 聂屿

曹广颂,朱首贤,张文静,等. 南沙群岛礁概化地形上拍岸浪数值模拟与统计分析[J]. 海洋学报,2020,42(1):22–30,doi:10.3969/j.issn.0253−4193.2020.01.003
引用本文: 曹广颂,朱首贤,张文静,等. 南沙群岛礁概化地形上拍岸浪数值模拟与统计分析[J]. 海洋学报,2020,42(1):22–30,doi:10.3969/j.issn. 0253−4193.2020.01.003
Cao Guangsong,Zhu Shouxian,Zhang Wenjing, et al. Numerical simulations and statistical analysis of surf on the generalized topography of the Nansha Islands[J]. Haiyang Xuebao,2020, 42(1):22–30,doi:10.3969/j.issn.0253−4193.2020.01.003
Citation: Cao Guangsong,Zhu Shouxian,Zhang Wenjing, et al. Numerical simulations and statistical analysis of surf on the generalized topography of the Nansha Islands[J]. Haiyang Xuebao,2020, 42(1):22–30,doi:10.3969/j.issn.0253−4193.2020.01.003

南沙群岛礁概化地形上拍岸浪数值模拟与统计分析

doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2020.01.003
基金项目: 国家自然科学基金(41076048,41376012);中央高校基本科研业务费项目(2018B46914)。
详细信息
    作者简介:

    曹广颂(1992—),男,江苏省连云港市人,主要从事海洋动力学与数值模拟研究。E-mail:824708267@qq.com

    通讯作者:

    朱首贤,男,副教授,研究方向为海洋动力学与数值模式、河口海岸水沙运动及遥感。E-mail:zhushouxian@vip.sina.com

  • 中图分类号: P731.2

Numerical simulations and statistical analysis of surf on the generalized topography of the Nansha Islands

  • 摘要: 南沙群岛珊瑚岛礁众多,大多数岛礁具有向海坡陡峭、外礁坪比较平缓的特征。将南沙群岛岛礁的迎浪向地形概化为陡坡和缓坡组成的双斜坡,采用FUNWAVE-TVD模式数值模拟概化地形上的波浪,根据模拟的破碎波高分析其拍岸浪特征。对拍岸浪数值模拟结果进行比较分析,向海坡的坡度对拍岸浪影响不大,外礁坪上拍岸浪高随地形坡度增大而略有增大;向海坡和外礁坪交界位置(即坡折点)水深对拍岸浪有比较明显的影响,拍岸浪高随坡折点水深增大而减小;拍岸浪高随入射波高和波周期增大而增大。利用大量的拍岸浪数值模拟数据对国内外5种统计模型进行检验,并且基于拍岸浪数值模拟数据建立了3种南沙群岛岛礁拍岸浪统计模型,计算结果显示这些模型适用性较好。
  • 图  1  南沙群岛珊瑚礁体类型[16]

    Fig.  1  Types of the coral reefs of the Nansha Islands

    图  2  环礁地貌单元划分[16]

    Fig.  2  The landsacpe of the coral atoll[16]

    图  3  波浪水槽实验设置

    Fig.  3  The sketch of the wave flume experiment

    图  4  数值模拟与水槽实验的波高比较

    Fig.  4  The wave heights from the wave flume experiment and numerical simulation

    图  5  南沙群岛岛礁波浪数值模拟的概化地形

    Fig.  5  The generalized topography for the numerical simulations of wave on the Nansha Islands reefs

    图  6  不同入射波高和波周期的波浪模拟结果

    Fig.  6  The simulated wave heights impacted by the incident wave heights and periods

    图  7  向海坡坡度对破碎波高影响的数值模拟结果

    Fig.  7  The simulated breaking wave heights impacted by the slopes of seaward reef slopes

    图  8  外礁坪坡度对破碎波高影响的数值模拟结果

    Fig.  8  The simulated breaking wave heights impacted by the slopes of outer reef flats

    图  9  坡折点水深对破碎波高影响的数值模拟结果

    Fig.  9  The simulated breaking wave heights impacted by the depths at slope turnings

    图  10  统计模型与数值模拟的破碎波高

    Fig.  10  The breaking wave heights from the statistical models and the numerical simulations

    图  11  A模型、B模型、C模型和数值模拟的破碎波高

    Fig.  11  The breaking wave heights from the A, B, C models and the numerical simulations

    表  1  720个波浪数值模拟算例的参数设置

    Tab.  1  The 720 cases of wave numerical simulations

    外礁坪坡度s2坡折点水深hr/m入射波周期T0/s入射波高H0/m
    1∶30
    1∶40
    1∶50
    1∶601.00.5
    1∶701.551.0
    1∶802.081.5
    1∶1002.510 2.0
    1∶1503.0
    1∶300
    1∶500
    1∶700
    1∶1 000
    下载: 导出CSV
  • [1] 中国科学院南沙综合科学考察队. 南沙群岛及其邻近海区综合调查研究报告(一)[M]. 北京: 科学出版社, 1989: 1−5.

    The Multidisciplinary Oceanographic Expedition Team of Academia Sinaca to Nansha Islands. Comprehensive Investigation Report on Nansha Islands and Adjacent Sea Areas(1)[M]. Beijing: Science Press, 1989: 1−5.
    [2] Lee T T, Black K P. The energy spectra of surf waves on a coral reef[C]//Proceedings of the 16th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Hamburg, Germany: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1978: 588−608.
    [3] Young I R. Wave transformation over coral reefs[J]. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 1989, 94(C7): 9779−9789. doi: 10.1029/JC094iC07p09779
    [4] Hardy T A, Young I R. Field study of wave attenuation on an offshore coral reef[J]. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 1996, 101(C6): 14311−14326. doi: 10.1029/96JC00202
    [5] Lowe R J, Falter J L, Bandet M D, et al. Spectral wave dissipation over a barrier reef[J]. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 2005, 110(C4): C04001.
    [6] Seelig W N. Laboratory study of reef-lagoon system hydraulics[J]. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 1983, 109(4): 380−391. doi: 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1983)109:4(380)
    [7] Gourlay M R, Colleter G. Wave-generated flow on coral reefs-an analysis for two-dimensional horizontal reef-tops with steep faces[J]. Coastal Engineering, 2005, 52(4): 353−387. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2004.11.007
    [8] 梅弢, 高峰. 波浪在珊瑚礁坪上传播的水槽试验研究[J]. 水道港口, 2013, 34(1): 13−18. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1005-8443.2013.01.003

    Mei Tao, Gao Feng. Flume experiment research on law of wave propagation in reef flat[J]. Journal of Waterway and Harbor, 2013, 34(1): 13−18. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1005-8443.2013.01.003
    [9] Yao Yu, Huang Zhenhua, Monismith S G, et al. Characteristics of monochromatic waves breaking over fringing reefs[J]. Journal of Coastal Research, 2013, 29(1): 94−104.
    [10] 姚宇, 杜睿超, 袁万成, 等. 珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化实验研究[J]. 海洋学报, 2015, 37(12): 66−73.

    Yao Yu, Du Ruichao, Yuan Wancheng, et al. Experimental study of wave transformation around the surf zone over fringing reefs[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2015, 37(12): 66−73.
    [11] 姚宇, 唐政江, 杜睿超, 等. 珊瑚礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流实验研究[J]. 海洋科学, 2017, 41(2): 12−19. doi: 10.11759/hykx20160313001

    Yao Yu, Tang Zhengjiang, Du Ruichao, et al. Experimental study of wave transformation and wave-driven current around the surf zone over coral reefs[J]. Marine Sciences, 2017, 41(2): 12−19. doi: 10.11759/hykx20160313001
    [12] 刘宁. 波浪在岛礁地形上传播特性的试验研究[D]. 大连: 大连理工大学, 2014.

    Liu Ning. Experimental research on wave propagation characteristics under reef terrain[D]. Dalian: Dalian University of Technology, 2014.
    [13] 聂屿, 朱首贤, 李训强, 等. 基于波浪水槽实验建立陡坡-礁盘地形的拍岸浪统计计算模型[J]. 海洋科学进展, 2018, 36(3): 374−383. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1671-6647.2018.03.004

    Nie Yu, Zhu Shouxian, Li Xunqiang, et al. A statistical model for surf shoaling and breaking on reefs with steep bathymetry based on flume experiments[J]. Advances in Marine Science, 2018, 36(3): 374−383. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1671-6647.2018.03.004
    [14] 刘清君, 孙天霆, 王登婷. 岛礁陡坡地形上波浪破碎试验研究[J]. 水运工程, 2018(12): 42−45. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1002-4972.2018.12.009

    Liu Qingjun, Sun Tianting, Wang Dengting. Experimental research on wave breaking on steep reef terrain[J]. Port & Waterway Engineering, 2018(12): 42−45. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1002-4972.2018.12.009
    [15] 诸裕良, 宗刘俊, 赵红军, 等. 复合坡度珊瑚礁地形上波浪破碎的试验研究[J]. 水科学进展, 2018, 29(5): 717−727.

    Zhu Yuliang, Zong Liujun, Zhao Hongjun, et al. Experimental study of waves breaking over coral reef topography of a composite slope[J]. Advances in Water Science, 2018, 29(5): 717−727.
    [16] 赵焕庭. 南沙群岛自然地理[M]. 北京: 科学出版社, 1996: 42−60, 53−56.

    Zhao Huanting. Physical Geography of Nansha Islands[M]. Beijing: Science Press, 1996: 42−60, 53−56.
    [17] 陈欣树, 宋朝景, 赵焕庭. 南沙群岛部分珊瑚礁浅水地形[G]//中国科学院南沙综合科学考察队. 南沙群岛及其邻近海区地质地球物理及岛礁研究论文集(二). 北京: 科学出版社, 1994: 59−68.

    Chen Xinshu, Song Chaojing, Zhao Huanting. Shallow water topography of some coral reefs in Nansha Islands[G]//Nansha Comprehensive Investigation Team of Chinese Academy of Sciences. Papers on Geophysics and Reef Research in Nansha Islands and Adjacent Sea Areas (2). Beijing: Science Press, 1994: 59−68.
    [18] 谢以萱. 南沙群岛海区地形基本特征[G]//中国科学院南沙综合科学考察队. 南沙群岛及其邻近海区地球物理及岛礁研究论文集(一). 北京: 海洋出版社, 1991: 1−11.

    Xie Yixuan. Basic terrain characteristics of Nansha Islands sea area[G]//Nansha Comprehensive Investigation Team of Chinese Academy of Sciences. Papers on Geophysics and Reef Research in Nansha Islands and Adjacent Sea Areas(1). Beijing: China Ocean Press, 1991: 1−11.
    [19] Wei Ge, Kirby J T, Grilli S T, et al. A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. Part 1. Highly nonlinear unsteady waves[J]. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 1995, 294: 71−92. doi: 10.1017/S0022112095002813
    [20] Kirby J T. Boussinesq models and their application to coastal processes across a wide range of scales[J]. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 2016, 142(6): 03116005. doi: 10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000350
    [21] Munk W H. The solitary wave theory and its application to surf problems[J]. Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences, 1949, 51(3): 376−424. doi: 10.1111/j.1749-6632.1949.tb27281.x
    [22] Komar P D, Gaughan M K. Airy wave theory and breaker height prediction[C]//Proceedings of the 13th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1972: 405−418.
    [23] 柳淑学, 刘宁, 李金宣, 等. 波浪在珊瑚礁地形上破碎特性试验研究[J]. 海洋工程, 2015, 33(2): 42−49.

    Liu Shuxue, Liu Ning, Li Jinxuan, et al. Experimental researches on wave propagation characteristics on reefs terrain[J]. The Ocean Engineering, 2015, 33(2): 42−49.
  • 加载中
图(11) / 表(1)
计量
  • 文章访问数:  451
  • HTML全文浏览量:  50
  • PDF下载量:  140
  • 被引次数: 0
出版历程
  • 收稿日期:  2019-04-28
  • 修回日期:  2019-09-04
  • 网络出版日期:  2021-04-21
  • 刊出日期:  2020-01-25

目录

    /

    返回文章
    返回