台湾海峡风涌浪分离方法研究

林伊楠; 陶爱峰; 李雪丁; 郑祥靖; 尹硕

doi:10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2019.11.003

台湾海峡风涌浪分离方法研究

doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2019.11.003

林伊楠^{1, 2,},
陶爱峰^2, ,,
李雪丁³,
郑祥靖³,
尹硕⁴

1.
海岸灾害及防护教育部重点实验室（河海大学），江苏南京 210098
2.
河海大学港口海岸与近海工程学院，江苏南京 210098
3.
福建省海洋预报台，福建福州 350003
4.
中交第三航务工程勘察设计院有限公司，上海 200032

基金项目: 福建省科技计划项目（2018Y0001）；国家自然科学基金项目（51579091，41106001）。

详细信息

作者简介:
林伊楠（1996—），女，福建省莆田市人，从事水波动力学研究。E-mail：1126878707@qq.com

通讯作者:
陶爱峰，男，教授，主要从事水波动力学研究。E-mail：aftao@hhu.edu.cn

中图分类号: P731.22
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- 文章访问数: 400
- HTML全文浏览量: 85
- PDF下载量: 108
- 被引次数: 0
出版历程
- 收稿日期: 2019-01-14
- 修回日期: 2019-04-11
- 网络出版日期: 2021-04-21
- 刊出日期: 2019-11-25

Study on separation method of wind-wave and swell in the Taiwan Strait

1.
Key Laboratory of Coastal Disaster and Defence (Hohai University), Ministry of Education, Nanjing 210098, China
2.
College of Harbor, Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Hohai University, Nanjing 210098, China
3.
Fujian Marine Forecasts, Fuzhou 350003, China
4.
CCCC Third Harbor Consultants Co., Ltd., Shanghai 200032, China

摘要

摘要: 受狭管效应的影响，台湾海峡波浪较大且常与涌浪混合存在。涌浪对包括船舶在内的浮式结构物有着重要的影响，而风涌浪分离是研究涌浪特性的必要前提，也一直是研究的热点和困难问题。由于数据的欠缺和观测条件的限制，在风涌浪分离方法中被普遍认可的二维谱方法常常难以使用，如何选择更为精准的一维谱方法往往会成为实际研究和应用过程中必须面对的问题。利用台湾海峡内3个具有二维谱数据的测站，通过将二维谱分离结果作为参考，针对台湾海峡风浪和涌浪的特征，探讨了风涌浪分离一维谱方法在该海域的适用性问题，研究表明风速法相较其他方法精度更好，在这一基础上提出了一种将波谱积分法与风速法相结合的一维谱方法。
- 风涌浪分离 /
- 台湾海峡 /
- 一维谱 /
- 涌浪 /
- 风浪
Abstract: Due to the narrow tube effect, ocean waves are large and usually mixed with swell in the Taiwan Strait. Much attention has been attracted by the swells, since they have important impacts on floating structures including the ships. The separation of wind-waves and swells is a fundamental step for the research on characteristics of swells, also is a hot topic with difficulties. But the generally accepted method of separation, which is two-dimensional spectral method, is hard to use in practice due to lack of data and limitations of observation. Thus the selection of one-dimensional spectral method with high accuracy becomes a key problem in the practical. Using the two-dimensional spectral data of three wave stations in the Taiwan Strait, results of separation are obtained. Considering results of separation as well as characteristics of wind-waves and swells in the Taiwan Strait, accuracies of different one-dimensional spectral methods are calculated and compared. The results show that the PM method as a whole is more accurate than other methods. Based on results of separation, a one-dimensional spectrum method is proposed which is a combination of the improved WH method and the PM method.
- separation of wind-wave and swell /
- Taiwan Strait /
- one-dimensional spectral /
- swell /
- wind-wave

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图 1 浮标测站位置

Fig. 1 Position of buoys

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图 2 马祖浮标2016年8月31日16时二维海浪谱

a. 原始二维海浪谱；b. 二维离散卷积变换并消除噪点影响后的二维海浪谱

Fig. 2 2D wave spectrum of Matsu buoy at 16:00 on August 31, 2016

a. Original 2D wave spectrum; b. 2D wave spectrum with 2D discrete convolution transformation and elimination the effect of noise

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图 3 马祖浮标2016年8月31日16时风涌浪分离结果

a. 原始一维海浪谱；b. 基于频率的主波向分布

Fig. 3 Separation of wind-wave and swell of Matsu buoy at 16:00 on August 31, 2016

a. Original 1D wave spectrum; b. principal wave direction distribution based on frequency

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图 4 4种1D法分离后涌浪有效波高与标准值对比结果

a. PM法；b. WH法；c. 改进的WH法；d. JP法

Fig. 4 Comparison of effective wave heights of swell with standard values after separation by four methods in 1D

a. PM method; b. WH method; c. improved WH method; d. JP method

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图 5 提取部分改进的WH法与PM法分离结果对比

a. 提取部分分离结果；b. 对应PM法分离结果

Fig. 5 Comparison of the separation results of the improved WH method with the PM method

a. Extraction partial separation results; b. corresponding PM separation results

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图 6 改进的WH法分离后涌浪有效波高与标准值对比结果

Fig. 6 Comparison of effective wave heights and standard values of swell separated by improved WH method

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图 7 马祖浮标2016年8月30日21时波浪频谱

Fig. 7 Wave spectrum of Matsu buoy at 21:00 on August 30, 2016

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图 8 两种1D法结合后风涌浪分离结果与标准值对比

a. 原始涌浪分离结果；b. 调整为PM法后涌浪分离结果；c. 两种分离方法结合后的涌浪分离结果；d. 原始风浪分离结果；e. 调整为PM法后风浪分离结果；f. 两种分离方法结合后的风浪分离结果

Fig. 8 Comparison two 1D methods of separation wind-wave and swell results with of standard values

a. Original separation result of swell; b. adjusted to PM method after separation result of swell; c. two separation methods combined result of swell; d. original separation result of wind wave; e. adjusted to PM method after separation result of wind wave; f. two separation methods combined result of wind wave

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表 1 测站位置信息

Tab. 1 Station position information

测站名称测站位置

马祖 26.350 8°N，120.513 6°E
金门 24.380 0°N，118.413 3°E
澎湖 23.726 9°N，119.519 9°E

下载: 导出CSV

表 2 4种1D法分离后的涌浪有效波高与标准值的相似度

Tab. 2 Similarity between the effective wave heights of swell with standard values after separation by four methods in 1D

PM法 WH法改进的WH法 JP法

相关系数 0.827 0.705 0.718 0.568
均方根误差 0.249 0.430 0.368 0.558

下载: 导出CSV

表 3 4种1D法分离后的风浪有效波高与标准值的相似度

Tab. 3 Similarity between the effective heights of wind wave with standard values after separation by four methods in 1D

PM法 WH法改进的WH法 JP法

相关系数 0.956 0.908 0.930 0.696
均方根误差 0.206 0.317 0.303 0.645

下载: 导出CSV

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