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海滩冲流带高频振动及碎波带波浪作用的模态分析

李志强 陈子燊

李志强, 陈子燊. 海滩冲流带高频振动及碎波带波浪作用的模态分析[J]. 海洋学报, 2008, 30(2): 161-168.
引用本文: 李志强, 陈子燊. 海滩冲流带高频振动及碎波带波浪作用的模态分析[J]. 海洋学报, 2008, 30(2): 161-168.
LI Zhi-qiang, CHEN Zi-shen. Analyses of modes existing in the high frequency fluctuations of beachface and wave actions in the surf zone[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2008, 30(2): 161-168.
Citation: LI Zhi-qiang, CHEN Zi-shen. Analyses of modes existing in the high frequency fluctuations of beachface and wave actions in the surf zone[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2008, 30(2): 161-168.

海滩冲流带高频振动及碎波带波浪作用的模态分析

基金项目: 国家自然科学基金资助项目(40576041);广东海洋大学引进人才科研启动资金资助项目(E06049)

Analyses of modes existing in the high frequency fluctuations of beachface and wave actions in the surf zone

  • 摘要: 一般来说,研究者对海滩中长尺度变化的研究比较多,通过时间间隔为数小时、1d,1周、1个月甚至1a一次的重复测量来分析海滩的变化特征,但海滩冲流带是动力和地形发生高频率变化的一个区域,每次波浪引起的上冲和回流过程均要引起滩面泥沙的运动,造成滩面的局部堆积和侵蚀,而滩面地形的改变又反过来影响到下一次的冲流过程。这些现象对研究海滩碎波带动力和滩面地形相互作用机理、认识近岸泥沙的运动规律以及探讨岸滩的长期冲淤演变是十分有意义的。
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出版历程
  • 收稿日期:  2007-04-30
  • 修回日期:  2007-10-08

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