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双色波引起的碎波拍的数值研究

马小舟 董国海 滕斌

马小舟, 董国海, 滕斌. 双色波引起的碎波拍的数值研究[J]. 海洋学报, 2007, 29(6): 172-176.
引用本文: 马小舟, 董国海, 滕斌. 双色波引起的碎波拍的数值研究[J]. 海洋学报, 2007, 29(6): 172-176.
MA Xiao-zhou, DONG Guo-hai, TENG Bin. Numerical investigation of the surf beat induced by bichromatic waves[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2007, 29(6): 172-176.
Citation: MA Xiao-zhou, DONG Guo-hai, TENG Bin. Numerical investigation of the surf beat induced by bichromatic waves[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2007, 29(6): 172-176.

双色波引起的碎波拍的数值研究

基金项目: 新世纪优秀人才支持计划资助项目(NCET-04-0267);国家自然科学基金资助项目(50679010)

Numerical investigation of the surf beat induced by bichromatic waves

  • 摘要: 碎波拍是指在近岸水域沿海岸线正向传播、周期为0.5~5.0 min的波浪.碎波拍是近岸低频波浪的一种,最早由Munk[1]和Tucker[2]独立观测到并命名.
  • MUNK W H.Surf beats[J].EOS Trans AGU,1949,30:849-854.
    TUCKER M J.Surf beats:sea waves of 1 to 5 minutes period[J].Proc R Soc London Ser A,1950,202:565-573.
    SMITH G G,MOCKE G P.Interaction between breaking/broken waves and infragravity-scale phenomena to control sediment suspension transport in the surf zone[J].Mar Geol,2002,187(3-4):329-345.
    YU Jie,MEI Chiang Chong.Formation of sand bars under surface waves[J].J Fluid Mech,2000,416:315-348.
    SMALLMAN J V,COOPER A J.A mathematical model for set down in harbors[J].Coastal Eng,1989,13:247-261.
    NAGAI T,HASHIMOTO N,ASAI T,et al.Relationship of a moored vessel in a habour and a long wave caused by wave groups[A].Proceedings of 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering[C].New York:ASCE,1994.847-861.
    KAMPHUIS J W.Designing for low frequency waves[A].Proceedings of 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering[C].Reston,VA:ASCE,2000.1 434-1 447.
    SYMONDS G,HUNTLEY D A,BOWEN A J.Two-dimensional surf beat:long wave generation by a time-varying breakpoint[J].J Geophys Res,1982,87(C1):492-498.
    ROELVINK J A.Surf beat and its effect on cross-shore profiles[M].Delft:Delft University of Technology,1993.
    VAN DONGEREN A,RENIERS A,BATTJES J,et al.Numerical modeling of infragravity wave response during DELILAH[J].J Geophys Res,2003,108(C9):3 288-3 307.
    DONG Gu-hai,TENG Bin,CHENG Liang.Improvements on mean free wave surface modeling[J].China Ocean Eng,2002,16(4):549-560.
    WATSON G,PEREGRINE D H.Low frequency waves in the surf zone[A].Proceedings of 23th International Conference on Coastal Engineering[C].New York:ASCE,1992.818-831.
    MADSEN P A,S RENSEN O R,SCHAFFER H A.Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model:Part ii.Surf beat and swash oscillations for wave groups and irregular waves[J].Coastal Eng,1997,32(4):289-319.
    ZELT J A.The run-up of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves[J].Coastal Eng,1991,15(3):205-246.
    MA Xiao-zhou,DONG Guo-hai,TENG Bin.An enhanced fully nonlinear surf zone wave model[A].Proceedings of 15th International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference[C].Seoul,Korea:ISOPE,2005.480-485.
    KOSTENSE J K.Measurements of surf beat and set-down beneath wave groups[A].Proceedings of 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering[C].New York:ASCE,1984.724-740.
    BALDOCK T E,HUNTLEY D A,BIRD P A D,et al.Breakpoint generated surf beat induced by bichromatic wave groups[J].Coastal Eng,2000,39(2-4):213-242.
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出版历程
  • 收稿日期:  2006-10-27
  • 修回日期:  2007-01-31

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