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一种近岸区波浪破碎模型

李绍武 王尚毅 柴山知也

李绍武, 王尚毅, 柴山知也. 一种近岸区波浪破碎模型[J]. 海洋学报, 1999, 21(1): 103-110.
引用本文: 李绍武, 王尚毅, 柴山知也. 一种近岸区波浪破碎模型[J]. 海洋学报, 1999, 21(1): 103-110.
Li Shaowu, Wang Shangyi, Tomoya Shibayama. A nearshore wave breaking model[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 1999, 21(1): 103-110.
Citation: Li Shaowu, Wang Shangyi, Tomoya Shibayama. A nearshore wave breaking model[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 1999, 21(1): 103-110.

一种近岸区波浪破碎模型

基金项目: 国家青年基金资助项目(编号:9709003);国家重点基金资助项目(编号:59839330)

A nearshore wave breaking model

  • 摘要: 从波浪破碎的能量关系入手,以紊流能量方程为基础,考虑破碎区内单个波在不同破碎阶段所提供的紊动能量强度的变化过程,提出了一种波浪破碎模式.通过将这一模型引入Boussinesq方程中,初步建立了一种近岸区波浪变形数学模型,并用波浪水槽实验资料对模型模拟波高和平均水位的情况进行了初步验证,得到了良好的结果.
  • Kobayashi N, IkISiva G S, Waston K D. Wave transformation and swash oscillation on gentle and steep slopes. J. Geophys. Res.,1989, 94(C1):951-966
    佐燕懊司·绮木秀典.碎波带における为底面流速变动波形の抨佰法.见:海岸工学渝文集,第40卷,1990, 386-390
    Karambas T V, Koutitas C. A breaking wave propagation model based on the Boussinesq equations. Coastal Engineering,1992, 18. 1-19
    Donghoon Yoo and Brian A O'Conner. Turbulence Transport Modelling of Wave-induced Currents. Schrefler and Zienkiewicz, Balkeroa. Rotterdam, 1988, 151-158
    Sato S, Fukuhama M, Horikawa K. Measurements of near-bottom velocities in random waves on a constant slope. Coastal Eng. in Japan, 1988, 31(2):219-229
    Stive M J F. Energy dissipation in waves breaking on gentle slopes. Coastal Eng.,1984, 8, 99-127
    Svendsen I A. Madsen P A, Buhr Hansen J. Wave characteristics in the surf zone. In:Proc. 16th Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng.,ASCE, 1918, 520-539
    The Task Committee on Turbulence models in Hydraulic Computations. Turbulence modeling of surface water flow and transport—Part I.J. Hydraulic Eng.,1987, 14(9):970-991
    Horikawa K, Kuo C T. A study on wave transformation inside surf zone. In; Proc. 10th Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng.,ASCE, 1966, 217-233
    launder B E, Spalding D B. Mathematical Models of Turbulence, Academic Press, New York. 1974
    Michael I3autista Kabiling. A model for two-dimensional nonlinear dispersive wave current and three-dimensional beach deformation. Doctor Dissertation, Department of Civil Eng. of Yokohama National University, 1994
    Jonsson I G. Wave boundary layers and friction factors. In; Pros. 10th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.,ASC;E, 1966, 127-148
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出版历程
  • 收稿日期:  1996-06-01
  • 修回日期:  1996-09-02

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