未破碎变浅随机海浪的非线性模式
A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves
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摘要: 利用实测和实验室数据分析了未破碎变浅海浪波面高度分布三阶矩(或波面偏度)相对于Hs/d的空间演化,利用本文的经验关系,在二阶近似下,给出了以Hs/d为参量的非线性波面表示模式,并推导了功率谱、二阶谱以及波面高度分布函数等特征量.文中还讨论了波面偏度和峰度的相关关系.Abstract: In this paper,the spatial evolution of the third-order moment (i.e.,the skewness) of the sea surface elevation for nonbreaking shoaling random waves versus Hs/d is analyzed by using the data obtained in field and laboratory.Using the empirical relationship given in this paper,the nonlinear model for the sea surface elevation of nonbreaking shoaling waves in the second-order approximation by expanding the first two terms of Hermitian polynomial is depicted by the parameter Hs/d,and such characteristics as the power spectrum,the bispectrum and the distribution function of sea surface elevation as well have been derived in this paper.The correlation between the skewness and the kurtosis of the sea surface elevation is also discussed.
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Key words:
- Shoaling /
- random waves /
- nonlinear model
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